Great job and very detailed for people not sure.
Would it be patronising to send the pdf to galleries and ebay sellers when I make future purchases😉
Only thing I would have expanded on, is how to tape up end caps properly.
I received a couple of prints with an end cap missing by either no tape or badly taped caps.

Same here. And I try to reuse tubes that were sent to me as much as possible.

Was saying the same thing. Charging big money but don’t have the decency to pack the item properly.

Certain artists and galleries I know I’m getting a good packing job. Others? A crapshoot.

Wow!!! thanks for this

Nice one shagga

Brilliant post, book marked this..cheers fella 👍

Yup, thanks for your input That Print Guy.

This is just my way of doing it.
There are always slight different ways to perform most raskt, I guess, but mainly ment for a first timer who don't feel so comfortable shipping, I assume this will help alot!

In the end, like with everything else, practice makes perfect...

Example,
Grab yourself a thicker plaim paper and pretend that it is your actual print.
Do a test run packing that, before you go ahead packing up your frist real print, it might save you a lot of hazel.

Anyway, nice that so many find this helpful ☺️

Great guide.

Small tweaks for me: masking tape/blue painters tape with mini flaps for securing craft paper. Stronger clear-ish tape for outside of tube. This has the worse affect of increasing the tape varietals necessary, but is a nice touch.

Overall, excellent.

If I may be so candid to add some advice to this great post by Shagga

As mentioned in other threads I often use tubes for carpet I get for free from a furniture store.
They are usually 4 meter / 13 feet long, so great to cut to any size needed.
And most important - for a Dutch - completely free! And good for the planet.
Make sure you get thick tubes - there also rather flimsy ones. Good ones are 0,5cm / 1/5th of an inch thick.

Of course these don't come with those handy white end caps.
So hereby my manual how to make them.

Get a piece of cardboard from a box. Not too thin, but also not very thick.
Put the end of the tube on the cardboard about 5 cm/2 inches from any edge.
Draw the outline of the tube on the cardboard.



Cut the cardboard, in a cirlce about those 5 cm/2 inches around the outline of the tube


Then make incisions from the edge towards the drawn circle, about every 2,5 cm/1 inch


Then put the tube end in the drawn circle and start folding the edges around the tube.
After you've done about half of them you can turn around the tube for easier handling


Use wide plastic tape (not Duct-tape) to make a cross to fit the end to the tube.
Then do a third piece of tape acros the first cross.


After that first apply tape around the end of the tube to make sure all bit are tightly strapped to the tube.
First right at the end - after that a second layer a bit lower to secure the first layer.


Then finish your second cross across the top - I use Fragile-tape .


Then put an extra layer of Fragile-tape around the edge.


And Bob's your uncle / Ready is Kees !


It might look a bit crappy, but it's actually very strong.
After closing one end, follow Shagga's method and then do the other end exactly the same.
I have probably sent over 100 prints like this and never had any problems.

Great thread btw, thanks for posting the guide Shagga

That might be a smart move, but could also bite you... I guess - as temperature change can more easily create due/moist inside that plastic bag and affect the print?

 Can you make a comparisom to show. One tube without plastic protection inside and one with and with different types of water damage from light shower to a monsoon?

Is there a series on how to send Framed artwork?

Also one thing that gets overlooked is the roll. A bad roll will ruin a print. I use a small tube to act as a guide. My rolls are perfect. I've received prints that were just improperly rolled with care and usually you can tell as you'll see these faint marks on the print. Hate that. Avoid it by using a guide.