qstick333
New Member
Posts โข 33
Likes โข 0
November 2009
|
framing/hinging question, by qstick333 on Nov 10, 2009 2:34:10 GMT 1, I am trying to mount (no pun intended)the courage to give framing a shot. I have been so dissatisfied with the local shops inability to reliably use archival quality materials, and their unwillingness to even try, that I need to try myself.
I know many on this board prefer the mylar corners, but I have concerns about them on heavy stock and also prints where the signature is extremely close to the bottom of the print. I don't want the corners exposed and I do doubt that they can support the weight of a heavy 30 x 40" pc etc...
I've read about proper hinging and plan to utilize a couple "T" hinges across the top of the print. I know Japanese starch tape is the ultimate, but I doubt that I can get that correct. Is a Filmoplast P90 a reasonable alternative? IS it truly removable? My main priority (aside from looking reasonable) is to have something truly reversible that will not damage the print in any way. While I did not purchase as an investment, I would hate to give up a good thing through my own negligence.
I'd appreciate any tips you could pass on,
Thanks,
Zach
I am trying to mount (no pun intended)the courage to give framing a shot. I have been so dissatisfied with the local shops inability to reliably use archival quality materials, and their unwillingness to even try, that I need to try myself.
I know many on this board prefer the mylar corners, but I have concerns about them on heavy stock and also prints where the signature is extremely close to the bottom of the print. I don't want the corners exposed and I do doubt that they can support the weight of a heavy 30 x 40" pc etc...
I've read about proper hinging and plan to utilize a couple "T" hinges across the top of the print. I know Japanese starch tape is the ultimate, but I doubt that I can get that correct. Is a Filmoplast P90 a reasonable alternative? IS it truly removable? My main priority (aside from looking reasonable) is to have something truly reversible that will not damage the print in any way. While I did not purchase as an investment, I would hate to give up a good thing through my own negligence.
I'd appreciate any tips you could pass on,
Thanks,
Zach
|
|
frontierman
New Member
Posts โข 21
Likes โข 1
February 2009
|
framing/hinging question, by frontierman on Nov 11, 2009 15:32:10 GMT 1, Japaneses Mulberry paper and Wheat starch paste is the best, But, and a big but, take a while to master, you will need de-ionised water to mix up the starch, you will need to practice to get just the right amount of paste on the japanese paper. You will need to experiment with different types of paper that artwork/prints come on, all the papers are different, so will need different amounts of starch for each paper.
You tear the paper, not cut it, so you do not have a hard line, because the paper of your print/art will absorbe some of the water from the wheat starch. You only attach the Japanese paper by 1/8" to the back of the print/art, then lay another Japanese paper across this creating a 'T' hinge, use two at the top of the print/art, and can be removed with de-ionised water, this is Museum standard.
P90 tape is conservation standard, again can be removed with de-ionised water, again you only attach by 1/8" to back of the top of your print/art, it is weak and can tear and break if the frame is dropped, the tape will give way first, it is designed that way so no damage or strain is put on the print/art.
Mylar corners are stronger and you do not allow any adhesive to comes in to contact with your print/art, you can get different sizes of corners, you can also get Mylar strips, which can be trimmed to lenght and size, so they only overlap the paper by a very small amount.
Good luck with the mounting
Japaneses Mulberry paper and Wheat starch paste is the best, But, and a big but, take a while to master, you will need de-ionised water to mix up the starch, you will need to practice to get just the right amount of paste on the japanese paper. You will need to experiment with different types of paper that artwork/prints come on, all the papers are different, so will need different amounts of starch for each paper.
You tear the paper, not cut it, so you do not have a hard line, because the paper of your print/art will absorbe some of the water from the wheat starch. You only attach the Japanese paper by 1/8" to the back of the print/art, then lay another Japanese paper across this creating a 'T' hinge, use two at the top of the print/art, and can be removed with de-ionised water, this is Museum standard.
P90 tape is conservation standard, again can be removed with de-ionised water, again you only attach by 1/8" to back of the top of your print/art, it is weak and can tear and break if the frame is dropped, the tape will give way first, it is designed that way so no damage or strain is put on the print/art.
Mylar corners are stronger and you do not allow any adhesive to comes in to contact with your print/art, you can get different sizes of corners, you can also get Mylar strips, which can be trimmed to lenght and size, so they only overlap the paper by a very small amount.
Good luck with the mounting
|
|
๐ธ