taz66
New Member
🗨️ 750
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November 2011
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Banksy print, by taz66 on Sept 5, 2014 16:22:47 GMT 1, Hi help, i have been told by one framer not to float mount a Banksy print due to its high value £ but another said its ok can anyone advise
Hi help, i have been told by one framer not to float mount a Banksy print due to its high value £ but another said its ok can anyone advise
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Banksy print, by Happy Shopper on Sept 5, 2014 16:26:49 GMT 1, It's not a problem if done right.
You see a lot of prints float mounted in galleries, so I imagine it's a good way to frame valuable prints.
It's not a problem if done right.
You see a lot of prints float mounted in galleries, so I imagine it's a good way to frame valuable prints.
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Banksy print, by Poly Mindset on Sept 5, 2014 16:56:17 GMT 1, Hey there, it's best not to float a piece with considerable value unless the framer uses Japanese hinges, and not many framers know how to do that correctly. The reason you don't want to float it is because they have to use adhesives on the back of the piece. If you ever want to resell it the adhesive is difficult to remove(although it can be done) and most collectors don't want any adhesive on their pictures. Also there is a chance that when the adhesive is removed some paper may come off with it. Basically it devalues the piece. Additionally you would have to pay a professional to remove the adhesive. It's best to just frame the piece using spacers between the art and the plexiglass.
Hey there, it's best not to float a piece with considerable value unless the framer uses Japanese hinges, and not many framers know how to do that correctly. The reason you don't want to float it is because they have to use adhesives on the back of the piece. If you ever want to resell it the adhesive is difficult to remove(although it can be done) and most collectors don't want any adhesive on their pictures. Also there is a chance that when the adhesive is removed some paper may come off with it. Basically it devalues the piece. Additionally you would have to pay a professional to remove the adhesive. It's best to just frame the piece using spacers between the art and the plexiglass.
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stang
New Member
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September 2010
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Banksy print, by stang on Sept 5, 2014 17:02:39 GMT 1, Hey there, it's best not to float a piece with considerable value unless the framer uses Japanese hinges, and not many framers know how to do that correctly. The reason you don't want to float it is because they have to use adhesives on the back of the piece. If you ever want to resell it the adhesive is difficult to remove(although it can be done) and most collectors don't want any adhesive on their pictures. Also there is a chance that when the adhesive is removed some paper may come off with it. Basically it devalues the piece. Additionally you would have to pay a professional to remove the adhesive. It's best to just frame the piece using spacers between the art and the plexiglass.
Hey there, it's best not to float a piece with considerable value unless the framer uses Japanese hinges, and not many framers know how to do that correctly. The reason you don't want to float it is because they have to use adhesives on the back of the piece. If you ever want to resell it the adhesive is difficult to remove(although it can be done) and most collectors don't want any adhesive on their pictures. Also there is a chance that when the adhesive is removed some paper may come off with it. Basically it devalues the piece. Additionally you would have to pay a professional to remove the adhesive. It's best to just frame the piece using spacers between the art and the plexiglass. I think better advice would be simply don't go to a framer who doesn't know how to use Japanese hinges |
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Harveyn
Full Member
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July 2007
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Banksy print, by Harveyn on Sept 5, 2014 17:08:01 GMT 1, Hey there, it's best not to float a piece with considerable value unless the framer uses Japanese hinges, and not many framers know how to do that correctly. The reason you don't want to float it is because they have to use adhesives on the back of the piece. If you ever want to resell it the adhesive is difficult to remove(although it can be done) and most collectors don't want any adhesive on their pictures. Also there is a chance that when the adhesive is removed some paper may come off with it. Basically it devalues the piece. Additionally you would have to pay a professional to remove the adhesive. It's best to just frame the piece using spacers between the art and the plexiglass. It is of course all just a matter of opinion but mine would be the opposite.
Proper Japanese hinging paper is 100% reversible without effect. It is both acid free and water soluble.
If you decide not to float then part of your print will be concealed by mount card and eventually a fade mark will become evident irrespective of museum glass when you remove your print. It might take many years but it will happen as no glass is 100% UV protective.
Of course if your print is float mounted it will be exposed to the same amount of UV as a matted print but the difference is fading will be 100% even and virtually undetectable.
Just my opinion and preference of course.
Hey there, it's best not to float a piece with considerable value unless the framer uses Japanese hinges, and not many framers know how to do that correctly. The reason you don't want to float it is because they have to use adhesives on the back of the piece. If you ever want to resell it the adhesive is difficult to remove(although it can be done) and most collectors don't want any adhesive on their pictures. Also there is a chance that when the adhesive is removed some paper may come off with it. Basically it devalues the piece. Additionally you would have to pay a professional to remove the adhesive. It's best to just frame the piece using spacers between the art and the plexiglass. It is of course all just a matter of opinion but mine would be the opposite.
Proper Japanese hinging paper is 100% reversible without effect. It is both acid free and water soluble.
If you decide not to float then part of your print will be concealed by mount card and eventually a fade mark will become evident irrespective of museum glass when you remove your print. It might take many years but it will happen as no glass is 100% UV protective.
Of course if your print is float mounted it will be exposed to the same amount of UV as a matted print but the difference is fading will be 100% even and virtually undetectable.
Just my opinion and preference of course.
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kultur
New Member
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June 2010
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Banksy print, by kultur on Sept 5, 2014 18:34:23 GMT 1, Hey there, it's best not to float a piece with considerable value unless the framer uses Japanese hinges, and not many framers know how to do that correctly. The reason you don't want to float it is because they have to use adhesives on the back of the piece. If you ever want to resell it the adhesive is difficult to remove(although it can be done) and most collectors don't want any adhesive on their pictures. Also there is a chance that when the adhesive is removed some paper may come off with it. Basically it devalues the piece. Additionally you would have to pay a professional to remove the adhesive. It's best to just frame the piece using spacers between the art and the plexiglass. It is of course all just a matter of opinion but mine would be the opposite.
Proper Japanese hinging paper is 100% reversible without effect. It is both acid free and water soluble.
If you decide not to float then part of your print will be concealed by mount card and eventually a fade mark will become evident irrespective of museum glass when you remove your print. It might take many years but it will happen as no glass is 100% UV protective.
Of course if your print is float mounted it will be exposed to the same amount of UV as a matted print but the difference is fading will be 100% even and virtually undetectable.
Just my opinion and preference of course.
Japanese paper and Linen tape are completely reversible acid free and museum quality - and should be used enough so that the print is properly secured to the museum mount. Every experienced framer will have different guidelines, but it is okay to use just a little more than needed to have the piece of mind that your print will not beak the mount and fall.
As Harveyn also said, I put UV plexi on everything and still I know some rays are getting though - nothing I own is in direct sunlight. I remember unframing something about 20 years ago that had been regular matted and framed with UV glass and all archival materials and the paper was definitely lighter in the center and had quite a dark frame around the print where the mat was. It looked awful.
And try to stay away from cheap framers in all honesty. Rarely will you see a quality framer who has prices you will think are inexpensive. If you look around and see lots of framed cheap posters - run- a quality framer should have his best pieces on display.
Hey there, it's best not to float a piece with considerable value unless the framer uses Japanese hinges, and not many framers know how to do that correctly. The reason you don't want to float it is because they have to use adhesives on the back of the piece. If you ever want to resell it the adhesive is difficult to remove(although it can be done) and most collectors don't want any adhesive on their pictures. Also there is a chance that when the adhesive is removed some paper may come off with it. Basically it devalues the piece. Additionally you would have to pay a professional to remove the adhesive. It's best to just frame the piece using spacers between the art and the plexiglass. It is of course all just a matter of opinion but mine would be the opposite.
Proper Japanese hinging paper is 100% reversible without effect. It is both acid free and water soluble.
If you decide not to float then part of your print will be concealed by mount card and eventually a fade mark will become evident irrespective of museum glass when you remove your print. It might take many years but it will happen as no glass is 100% UV protective.
Of course if your print is float mounted it will be exposed to the same amount of UV as a matted print but the difference is fading will be 100% even and virtually undetectable.
Just my opinion and preference of course.
Totally agree! This forum is so concerned about anything adhered to a print and it really needs to end- hopefully with some education it will. Japanese paper and Linen tape are completely reversible acid free and museum quality - and should be used enough so that the print is properly secured to the museum mount. Every experienced framer will have different guidelines, but it is okay to use just a little more than needed to have the piece of mind that your print will not beak the mount and fall. As Harveyn also said, I put UV plexi on everything and still I know some rays are getting though - nothing I own is in direct sunlight. I remember unframing something about 20 years ago that had been regular matted and framed with UV glass and all archival materials and the paper was definitely lighter in the center and had quite a dark frame around the print where the mat was. It looked awful. And try to stay away from cheap framers in all honesty. Rarely will you see a quality framer who has prices you will think are inexpensive. If you look around and see lots of framed cheap posters - run- a quality framer should have his best pieces on display. |
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Banksy print, by Black Apple Art on Sept 5, 2014 18:47:09 GMT 1, Hey there, it's best not to float a piece with considerable value unless the framer uses Japanese hinges, and not many framers know how to do that correctly. The reason you don't want to float it is because they have to use adhesives on the back of the piece. If you ever want to resell it the adhesive is difficult to remove(although it can be done) and most collectors don't want any adhesive on their pictures. Also there is a chance that when the adhesive is removed some paper may come off with it. Basically it devalues the piece. Additionally you would have to pay a professional to remove the adhesive. It's best to just frame the piece using spacers between the art and the plexiglass. It is of course all just a matter of opinion but mine would be the opposite.
Proper Japanese hinging paper is 100% reversible without effect. It is both acid free and water soluble.
If you decide not to float then part of your print will be concealed by mount card and eventually a fade mark will become evident irrespective of museum glass when you remove your print. It might take many years but it will happen as no glass is 100% UV protective.
Of course if your print is float mounted it will be exposed to the same amount of UV as a matted print but the difference is fading will be 100% even and virtually undetectable.
Just my opinion and preference of course.
Hey there, it's best not to float a piece with considerable value unless the framer uses Japanese hinges, and not many framers know how to do that correctly. The reason you don't want to float it is because they have to use adhesives on the back of the piece. If you ever want to resell it the adhesive is difficult to remove(although it can be done) and most collectors don't want any adhesive on their pictures. Also there is a chance that when the adhesive is removed some paper may come off with it. Basically it devalues the piece. Additionally you would have to pay a professional to remove the adhesive. It's best to just frame the piece using spacers between the art and the plexiglass. It is of course all just a matter of opinion but mine would be the opposite.
Proper Japanese hinging paper is 100% reversible without effect. It is both acid free and water soluble.
If you decide not to float then part of your print will be concealed by mount card and eventually a fade mark will become evident irrespective of museum glass when you remove your print. It might take many years but it will happen as no glass is 100% UV protective.
Of course if your print is float mounted it will be exposed to the same amount of UV as a matted print but the difference is fading will be 100% even and virtually undetectable.
Just my opinion and preference of course.
Agree 100% Harveyn. It has ben unanimous with every top conservationist that the Japanese hinges were the absolute best for archival and 100% reversible framing. As you said, no print coverage which will almost always leave behind undesirable effects. Have seen so many pieces that were " archival" framed that left either indentations and or color lines around the edge where the mounting was. Wish I knew this sooner but as was also mentioned, not many know how to do the hinges or properly remove them. |
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