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Poster Framing - best way, by purpleandred on May 23, 2018 12:02:49 GMT 1, Hello
I like the edge to edge framing I've seen on a lot of soupcan posters where the edge of the poster meets the edge of the frame/spacers. How is this done? ie: the posters look so flush and flat.
Is there an archival way of this without damaging the thin paper stock? for more expensive/valuable posters would you linen back first and them frame?
Thanks
Hello
I like the edge to edge framing I've seen on a lot of soupcan posters where the edge of the poster meets the edge of the frame/spacers. How is this done? ie: the posters look so flush and flat.
Is there an archival way of this without damaging the thin paper stock? for more expensive/valuable posters would you linen back first and them frame?
Thanks
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Poster Framing - best way, by purpleandred on May 31, 2018 8:06:19 GMT 1, I'm pasting the response of a PM conversation from a forum member which may help others interested in this topic:
"Hey, So there are a lot of options for what you propose. Typically when I frame a work so it goes right to the edge of the frame I want to be sure that the paper does not come in contact with the wood of the frame (assuming you use a wood frame). I usually hinge the print to a 4 ply museum board. Basically hang the print or poster with two pendant hinges on a sheet of museum board. If my print is 12 inches by 12 inches my museum board would be 12 1/8 x 12 1/8 inches so I have a tiny barrier 1/16 or an inch all around so the print is separated from the frame. Usually I would then use wood spacers that rest on the outer edge of the print. The side of wood spacer that rests on the print (or touches the print) would be lined with paper or a filmoplast tape – again so no wood actually touches the print. If you choose not to use a spacer and want to rest your glazing right on the the print that 1/16 of and inch of exposed museum board would be covered by the rabbet width (that portion of the frame that overhangs the acrylic). And definitely use acrylic, NOT glass, if you chose to rest the glazing directly on the print.
If it's a delicate or even damaged piece you might consider getting the print linen backed. Just be sure you're having it done by someone that knows restoration and preservation. With certain pieces it helps with appearance and it helps with preservation."
Thanks to chr1s
I'm pasting the response of a PM conversation from a forum member which may help others interested in this topic:
"Hey, So there are a lot of options for what you propose. Typically when I frame a work so it goes right to the edge of the frame I want to be sure that the paper does not come in contact with the wood of the frame (assuming you use a wood frame). I usually hinge the print to a 4 ply museum board. Basically hang the print or poster with two pendant hinges on a sheet of museum board. If my print is 12 inches by 12 inches my museum board would be 12 1/8 x 12 1/8 inches so I have a tiny barrier 1/16 or an inch all around so the print is separated from the frame. Usually I would then use wood spacers that rest on the outer edge of the print. The side of wood spacer that rests on the print (or touches the print) would be lined with paper or a filmoplast tape – again so no wood actually touches the print. If you choose not to use a spacer and want to rest your glazing right on the the print that 1/16 of and inch of exposed museum board would be covered by the rabbet width (that portion of the frame that overhangs the acrylic). And definitely use acrylic, NOT glass, if you chose to rest the glazing directly on the print.
If it's a delicate or even damaged piece you might consider getting the print linen backed. Just be sure you're having it done by someone that knows restoration and preservation. With certain pieces it helps with appearance and it helps with preservation."
Thanks to chr1s
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