how does this work exactly? i got a piece framed and its literally taped to the mount board, however some i have seen seem to hover above the mountboard? explanations??? thanks!

I would like to do some DIY framing, float mounting a print.
I had some readings about how to do it but I have some questions:

- I read here (http://www.diplomaframe.com/blog/tabid/178/entryid/257/tips-for-float-mounting-artwork.aspx) to use some tape, hinging the print at the top with a "T" hinge. what about the bottom of the print? should I do the same thing (like, upside-down) or only at the top?

- what kind of tape? there are too many! please post a link where I can buy it... or maybe someone on here (MFM?) can supply me some?

let's start with these questions... thanks.

I suspect MFM is in the framing business, not the 'supply of materials for folk to their own framing' business

I read something about Japanese rice paper hinges with feathered ends being used for float mounts in conjunction with some kind of paste glue that is water soluble and can be easily removed. The idea being that the hinges take the strain and break should the frame get a jolt instead of the print. Have a google

Don't use tape! Use Japanese rice paper (different types for different types/weights of paper)

Will put some consice info up later, Have a google for preservationequipment I think they sell 'selection packs' of varying types of paper

Brief guide...

www.frametek.com/HTML/Articles/Float_Mounting.html

I would say good framers earn every single penny, most people only add up the cost of materials!

little bump to this, thanks for the answers so far.

here is a thread I started few months ago about Japanese hinges - urbanartassociation.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=framing&thread=85251&page=1 .. hope someone will find it helpful...

yeah its a terrible way of mounting i agree i just wondered what people would say and i was hoping a video showing how it should be done may appear.

as for the U.V glass though i tend to go for just plexi but keep applying a high factor cream as i find this a cheaper option

I'm planning doing my first DIY pedestal float mount so I've been doing some research... there's a good thread on expressobeans on step-by-step DIY floating by a museum framer. Worth a read:

forum.Expressobeans/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=62429

I floated a couple pieces a few years ago. Mostly as above, use linen/acid free removable tape. I cut a nice tidy rectangle just a bit bigger than need be to get the tape into position easily. Forget measure twice! Measure like 40X I put very small dots in pencil at four corners for easy placement. Then after linen hinge mounted on nice thick 4ply, I backed again with 2ply to cover holes. Came out pretty well. First time takes a lot longer than the third time.

Edit: I just remembered, I used linen tape so I attached (wet) the side verso of the artwork first, let dry, then placed the artwork centered, then wet the half that mounted to the verso of the backboard. Much easier. ;D

sorry I never replied, but the truth is I still haven't done my first float mount... I have some big, valuable pieces to frame, and I just don't have the balls to do it just yet.. eventually, I'll get to it.. until than, it's good to see this thread keeps going with more useful information being added all the time...

Hardest part about this job was making the frame. I have a large Bosch mitre saw that I use for work that I cut the frame moulding with but to be honest the guillotine that framers use is probably a little easier.

To mount the print I used the method from the lionpic link I posted and used Hayaku tape moistened with de ironised water that I use for my fish tank but you can buy that stuff in bottles for car batteries and steam irons real cheap, but I have some ph7-70 tape that appears to be a favourite with framers too. This was a practice for some prints that are acually worth something so helped me understand how things worked together.

My plan is to get hold of some Somerset 300g paper and have a play with adding and removing tape just to see how damaging different tapes are.

My guess it that whilst these 'non archival' tapes CAN do damage it is possibly not as bad as some people would have us believe... That said I see no excuse for framers not to use archival materials as the cost and effort is not that much different.

I know of one place I spoke to that frames for a museum and couldn't get on with hayaku tape so reverted to ph7-70 which appears to be a framers favourite. Judge of that what you will.

My guess the tap water thing is down to chlorines and minerals in the water that COULD potentially make a difference to the print paper, I use DI reverse osmosis water for my marine fish tanks and use it also for cleaning windows and a final rinse on my vehicles and I can say that does make a difference.

Be a geek, do your research and ask questions to anyone and everyone. You can never hve too much knowledge. I've found that the ones that won't give you an answer usually have something to hide, be it their own lack of knowledge or they are up to something they shouldn't be.